- How to prepare the surface for the decal.
Please read these instructions all the way through before starting your application. The surface must be clean, and free of all oils, waxes and dirt. If decal is to be applied to GLASS, use Windex or a comparable cleaner to clean the glass. If you use RainX, try Formula 409 to remove it. On painted surfaces wipe with a wax remover or alcohol if applying on freshly waxed paint. These decals come to you in three layers. The top layer is called the Transfer Tape. It looks somewhat like regular masking tape. The middle layer is the actual decal. The bottom layer is a Backing Paper treated with a release agent.
- Dry method installation.
You will need a needle, a laminated drivers license, straight rubber spatula, or similar type squeegee.
Apply decal at room temperature ( 55 to 75 degrees) or above. The warmer it is, the better it works, but, try to avoid direct sunlight.
Take the squeegee and flatten the decal on both sides by rubbing over it. If your decal was shipped rolled, lay it out flat and let it relax for an hour or so. The decal will be easier to handle if flat. Next, try to make sure the air bubbles are removed as much as possible. There should be only a few bubbles at this point.
Turn the decal upside down on the transfer tape and pull backing off SLOWLY. The backing is the heavier gauge paper. Using a needle or similar pointed object, hold edges of letters and all small areas while pulling away the backing. If a letter moves, just position it back into place by pushing backing down and move letter back to original position.
You are now ready to apply the decal. Hold the decal over your desired location and slowly apply the decal to the surface. Try to touch the surface first at the center of the decal and then flatten out to the sides. Next, use your squeegee again to flatten as much of the decal as possible. The transfer tape will allow you to rub the decal without damaging it.
Peel back an edge of transfer tape SLOWLY. Watch the small letters and corners, making sure they are sticking to surface, and not to the transfer tape. Remember, PATIENCE IS THE KEY. DO NOT RUSH. Once the transfer tape is removed, take your fingers and rub gently over the corners and points of your decal to make sure they are adhered firmly to the surface. If you have small bubbles don't worry, they'll usually disappear after a day or two of air drying. If you just can't wait or the bubbles do not air dry out, use your needle and give it a small poke at the edge of the bubble, this will create a small hole for the air to escape. Press from the farthest area, working the air to the small hole.
REMEMBER Once the decal touches the glass or paint, it cannot be moved again. PATIENCE IS THE KEY.
- Wet method application.
Mix a solution of about 80% water and 20% isprophal alcohol, add a few drops of dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle.
Position decal on vehicle and tape top edge in place with masking tape.
Lift decal up and remove the backing paper.
Wet the area where the decal is to be applied and the backside of the decal.
Lower the decal onto the thoroughly wetted surface.
The decal can then be gently moved and repositioned if needed.
Your decal will slide on the thin film of solution trapped between the vinyl decal and the surface.
When the decal is in the final location, use a small squeegee or drivers license to squeeze the water and detergent solution out from under the decal. The transfer tape will protect the decal during this process.
Squeegee as much solution as possible from under the decal. Take your time, because if not enough solution is removed from under the decal, the decal will not adhere to the surface enough to allow the easy removal of the transfer tape.
When through with the squeegee, the transfer tape can be carefully removed.
If you’re having difficulty removing the transfer tape, you may spray the solution on the top of the transfer tape and wait for it to wrinkle slightly. This will soften the tape for easier removal from the decal and vehicle surface.
If there are small bubbles present under the decal they will normally evaporate out in the sun. This can take a day or two. If there are still bubbles present, a small pin or needle can be used to puncture the decal at the bubble, to remove the air. A small pin hole will not be seen after the air bubble has been worked out with the fingers.
- Caring for your decal.
In colder climates, decals on windows of vehicles can be damaged by the scraping of frost or ice from the windows. Mild window cleaner may be used to clean the windows without damage to the decal.
On painted surfaces of vehicles, care must be taken when waxing. Wax will build up around the edges of the decal, and will need to be removed. Use a soft cloth, and take your time, and be gentle. DON'T DO. A brush, for example will force the wax underneath the edge of the decal, and the decal will begin to peel. Your decal will not be damaged by normal use of car wash products, or water. Although the decals will withstand pressure washers and car washes, these will reduce the life and appearance of your decal. The decals will not last forever, but will give you many years of enjoyment if taken care of properly.
- Removing decals.
On glass surfaces, with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees, a razor blade scraper can be used. decals can be removed from painted surfaces by using a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the decal to the point to where it peels off easily.
THE APPLICATION OF VINYL DECALS REQUIRES A DEGREE OF DEXTERITY AND CONCENTRATION. IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU CANNOT APPLY THE DECAL YOURSELF, ANY AUTO DETAILER, OR BODY SHOP CAN APPLY IT FOR YOU. WE CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR REPLACING DECALS THAT HAVE BEEN DAMAGED DURING APPLICATION.
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